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  1. #1
    Senior Member Caitlyn0's Avatar
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    Caitlyn's Deck Building Guide - the Repost

    since A1 lost their website, this is something i have wanted to bring back, so here it is, in all its original glory. a blast from the past... time to revisit 2012
    ----------------------------------

    so... this is something ive been wanting to do for awhile and kept putting it off. i am told i am the most prolific deck-builder in SE. maybe, there is no way to know that. but i am definately the most prolific deck poster in SE

    anyway, its been a huge monster i have had a love/hate relationship with since i started it, haha. i think its good, i hope you all think so too. to make it easier vto understand i will also be doing a few walk-through for examples. meaning, i will build a deck from start to finish following this guide for you so you can see the process easier.


    ALL COMMENTS BUT TROLL COMMENTS are most welcome.


    so here it is, enjoy.

    ======

    SIDEBAR - TEMPO - how i see it

    before we get into it, there is something i want to talk about. and thats TEMPO. this is important in SE, probably more important in this game than any other. i think a lot of that has to do with that we have no cards that are called instants or interupts, etc. a player cant do anything on the other players turn to influence things.

    so, TEMPO. this is how i see it and it works very well for me. others have a little different opinion, i am sure. TEMPO and TEMPO advantage is the single most important key in shadowera. if you dont understand it at least a little, you will have a rough time. (the second most important thing in shadowera is card advantage which helps you get and keep TEMPO advantage)

    TEMPO for me is this: the total resource cost of all the cards you have in play. thats your TEMPO. your actual resources are potential TEMPO. and there are Tempo manipulation cards and abilities. you also have to look at a cards quaility as well when figuring your on board TEMPO. this is subjective because you also have to take into account how well you use it.

    example: you have 2 3cc allies on board and you opponent has none. so you have a huge TEMPO advantage of 6-0 they play a 5cc card called anklebreaker. now the quality of the anklebreaker is very good. comparing it and the 2 3cc allies, it can either break the TEMPO at being even just for the quality of the card itself or surpass the 6cc you have by how well the player uses it. so they could now have a subjective TEMPO of 7 compared to your temporary TEMPO of 3. using anklebreaker removes one of those allies from play for 1 turn and also weakens its quality. if that 3cc ally anklebreaker was used on was jasmine, jasmine is effectively removed from play for a turn and does not count for your TEMPO. and when she does come back into play, she is now, technically, a 2cc ally at 2 attack and 2 health. but all is not lost, its your turn now and your resources reset to become ingame TEMPO.

    but lets look at Jasmine for a minute. a 3cc ally. she is a TEMPO manipulator card as well. she can effectively waste 2 resources (or 2 potential "permanant" TEMPO) to remove your a certain amount of TEMPO of your opponent for a turn. say 5 for a 5cc ally. sometimes this works out and sometimes is doesnt. but thats the effect. waste 2 resources to remove a certain of TEMPO from your opponent for a turn.

    there are TEMPO reset cards as well, we call them board wipes. this is supernova, tidal wave and Nishaven's ability but not energy discharge. energy discharge is a TEMPO manipulator card.

    single use cards get a little tricky on figuring TEMPO in a game. this includes, but is not limited to, fireball, retreat and crippling blow. they are all different and their effect on TEMPO depends on how well a player uses them.


    this is also the reason why its better to go first than second. the way our game is designed and the importance of TEMPO is why this is. going first, you gain TEMPO first and are on the offensive first. going second you are always playing catch up and being defensive (at least until you overtake them)


    you should ALWAYS build a deck considering going second first. if you dont do this, then you deck is will only do well going first and will suck going second which means you will never achieve more than a 50% win rate. so get in that mind set. ONLY think about going second and goign first will take care of itself.

    =====

    STEP ONE

    the first thing you have to do when you want to create a new deck, is decide on a theme (no, not decide on a hero). everyone does this to some extent without realizing it. you already have an idea of what kind of deck you want to create BEFORE you choose the hero.

    choosing a theme encompasses a lot of different things. the first thing you have to decide is, do i want a competitive deck or a fun one? it can be both but which one is most important to you. most people will just automatically say competitive.

    while thinking on this, you have to consider this. is this more for ratings grabbing and doing well in QM or do i want a tournament deck. these are two entirely different things. doing well in QM you have to consider the ENTIRE game meta. that includes great, good and bad decks and people who "play favorites" outside of what is considered to be good. if you want a good tournament deck, you ahve to do a little research and go one of two routes. one: find out what other people have playing and find a deck that fits into the tournament meta so it will do well. OR two: find out the same thing and figure out what will counter the current tournament meta (like the top four of the world championship did).

    now you have to decide on if you want an "actual" theme. meaning an entire deck build around, say FIRE. check out my deck, GRavebone, Rain of Fire for an example of this.

    next and this is where you get into the core of what you want to do, is you have to decide on an archetype and maybe a sub-archetype. soothslyr did a great job at collecting and posting what the archtypes for TCGs are here:

    that is a terrific list but shadowera and you should refer to it because i am not going to go into a lot of detail concerning them, its a bit different in my opinion. in his guide, there are 3 main archetypes and serveral sub-archetypes. he also added one more main archetype based on the kind of card game SE is and that was SOLO.

    i agree with all of this but i believe there are 5 main archetypes in SE.

    these are:
    RUSH
    CONTROL
    BURN
    SOLO
    STRIPPER
    (we can now add MILL to this list)

    yes, i said stripper. stripper is a MAIN archetype. it doesnt completely fit into any of the others so is basically its own.

    and what i mean when i say a Stripper deck is this: any deck that consistantly and continually (not neccisarily constant) takes your opponents cards and lets you use them against them, whether it is from their deck, hand, graveyard or in play. this isnt deck or hand destruction, although it does somewhat have that effect.

    this happens with all main archetypes as well. most have elements of other archetypes as well. rush and burn use similar elements but in different ways to accomplish the same thing.

    so this is the list of archetypes to choose from:

    the main ones again


    RUSH - tons of draw/more than average number of allies - example: Majiya Portal

    CONTROL - average draw/standard amount of allies but with focus on control abilities/other control cards - example: Average Zhanna decks

    BURN - average to high draw/can have less than average number of allies but have those with burn abilities prefered/burn cards and possible hero ability - example: average mage build

    SOLO - good draw at beginning, may not be needed throughout/no allies/lots of control, stall and protection/high number of weapons preferred - example: solo Ter Adun

    Stripper - average to high draw/cards and abilities that give you you opponents cards to use - example: any of my stripper decks

    (MILL - the ability to remove the others players deck in a speedy manner so they have no options and run out of cards)



    the sub-archetypes


    hand destruction - not very viable. Serena is best hero for this. hunters and rogues with night prowler are the only options

    deck destruction - not very viable. forcing opponent to draw (and cast) is the only option right now.

    recursion - not a lot of options but a semi-viable. shadow knight and ghostmaker are important.

    suicide - not really that viable. ive only seen one in SE. Majiya with Evil Ascendant and Twice-Enchanted Robes (soothslyr's deck)

    lock - not viable, yet. we do not have the card pool available for this. "board lock" is not the same thing and they are ways to deal with that.

    mill - semi-viable. only through draw or stripping at the moment

    stall - mostly viable. fair number of stall cards. priests/wulven/hunters are probably the best at it right now.

    insta-win - not viable. we have no insta-win combos.

    weenie rush - less than semi-viable but very popular with new players at low ratings.

    (i wanted to put weenie rush in as a sub archetype because i believe it is.)


    some of these are not available in SE yet as we do not have a large enough card pool... yet.

    so, have you decide on your theme? yes? then lets move on
    Last edited by Caitlyn0; 07-03-2016 at 03:04 AM.
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    Senior Member Caitlyn0's Avatar
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    STEP TWO

    now that you know what you would like to do with your deck, its time to find the right hero... or the "wrong" one.

    you have to consider the hero's ability and the card pools available to the hero. which fits best into what deck you want to build?

    most heroes can do at least 3 of the main archetypes. for some heroes, its impossible to do certain ones. take for example Stripper decks, only 12 heroes out of twenty can do this effectively or at all.

    all can rush and all can control. only a handful can burn currently and only a handful can effectivily go solo. we just do not have the cards yet for every hero to go any route.

    so... have you looked things over and decided yet? im sorry, i am not going into more detail here on hero selection. for one, it would be VERY long as i would have to do every hero and consider every card and what possible themes you could do with each one. (and Wtzky has already done this with his hero guides. i HIGHLY recommend all of them) and two: most of you can already do this in at least a basic fashion.

    so, you have your hero now, lets move on.
    Last edited by Caitlyn0; 07-03-2016 at 02:57 AM.
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    Senior Member Caitlyn0's Avatar
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    3cc - SIDE BAR TWO

    yes, another sidebar. this needs to be discussed a little because it needs to be known by everyone. most of us already know this to some extent.

    what am i talking about. the keypoint of the game in terms of TEMPO and effective ability. its the top of the bell curve in the game. and thats the 3cc mark.

    3cc cards rule this game right now. almost all of them, their 3cc cost compared to their ability is extremely balanced. but thats not all. lower than 3cc and cards tend to be not effective in later parts of the game. above 3cc and probably loss of TEMPO can be devastating. lossing a 3cc card is easier to recover than losing a 5cc card. thats hurt, a LOT.

    what am i talking about? 1cc and 2cc cards are useful in the early game. and they are needed for the early game. but for most, they are not effective at all in the late game unless you have other cards to help them be more effect. aobve 3cc and you have to balance how good a card is and how effective it will be against LOSING the card. for this reason, 4cc allies are a BIG black hole. they are all basically 3cc alies but at 4cc price. mainly because their abilities are considered to be slightly better than the 3cc allies. an example: compare jasmine to marshland sentinal. they have similar abilities but marshlands is better a fair amount better but marshland's attack value takes away from that so that he is either even with jasmine or only slightly better. BUT he is not worth the 4cc price. if he cost 3cc, he would probably always be played over jasmine. in most cases its better to play a 3cc ally and lose that 1 resource to non use instead of casting a 4cc ally. that alone demonstrates how bad the 4cc allies are. then we get to 5cc allies. most are REALLY good. some are better. and the balancing act is much harder. you always play a card knowing that it will most likely get taken out, so when picking allies, its a good idea to pick one that has an immidate effect. (this is why aldon is so good, he can do anything himself but he buffs your allies already in play). this is also why a lot of people are picking molten destroyer over other 5cc alies when playing shadow. taking him out is can be problematic. he has an effect when attacked. certain heros can deal with him easier, like warriors using Criplling Blow.

    and do not get me wrong when i said 4cc allies suck, i mean just allies. other 4cc cards can be great. like Jeweler's dream, ill gotten gains and wraith of the forest, etc.

    but this is also why 5cc+ armors SUCK right now. they are not worth playing. with ley line nexus being available to every hero and its nearly in every deck. just plain losing a 5 or 6cc card before you get any use out of it is devastating. especially since your opponent is also wasting 5cc to do it BUT gains the benefit of drawing a card to replace the LLN. the only armor that has any value right now that is above 5cc is king's pride and thats because its like aldon, it has an immediate effect.

    so this is something to remember when building and playing a deck. 3cc is key. above that and you have to really consider the potential lose of TEMPO and the cards below 3cc might not be very good in the late game and will get in the way by becoming deck draws.
    Last edited by Caitlyn0; 07-03-2016 at 03:04 AM.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Caitlyn0's Avatar
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    STEP THREE

    when building a deck in shadowera, you are really building TWO decks. one for the early game and one for the mid/late game. you HAVE to do this. planning for the early game is the MOST IMPORTANT part of building the deck.

    why? because of TEMPO. maybe for some, this doesnt seem like much. turn one, you can only gain 1 TEMPO, on turn two, you can only gain 2 TEMPO. but this is huge. this sets up the whole rest of the game and you can come out way ahead by the time you reach the mid game.

    what is the early game? some people define it as turns 1-5. i define it as turns 1-4. those 4 turns combined have a potential of 10 TEMPO. this is huge considering how early in the game it is. one small loss at this point and you can lose the game. one small gain and you can dominate the rest of the game. the first person to "waste" TEMPO at this point is the one that USUALLY loses. an example of waste: going second you cast a turn 2 carniboar into your opponents turn 2 puwen. THAT is a waste. your carniboar is killed and your opponent lost no TEMPO at all. (this is also why puwen is such a good turn 2 card. he kills all other 2cc allies without help and survives. no other 2cc ally can say this except for pack wolf, which is really just a better version than puwen. this is why weak attack brute is a beter turn 2 drop than carniboar overall. carniboar is only good going first.)

    so to start we only consider ally drops on turns 1-3 and something else on turn 4 because 4cc allies SUCK. and you have to figure in going second. this is important.

    so this is what you should always consider when you first start building a deck and then make adjustments to it.

    HUMANS

    going first: T1-kris, T2-puwen, T3 aldon, T4 any unilateral draw engine/any other 3cc ally/any good 4cc weapon

    going second: T1-brigette, T2-puwen, T3-jasmine, T4 any unilateral draw engine/aldon if you have allies that survived/any good 4cc weapon

    SHADOW

    going first: T1-firesnake, T2-carniboar, T3-deathmage, T4-Any unilateral draw engine/any other 3cc ally/any good 4cc weapon

    going second: T1-firesnake, T2-brutalis, T3-gargoyle, T4-any unilateral draw engine/any 3cc ally/any good 4cc weapon



    this are the optimal ally based turns 1-4 plays. its a good place to start and now you make adjustments.

    forget going first and think going second. consider turn 1. do you want to waste space on a 1cc ally that can hurt you drawing it later in the game. are you going to add cards to help it being effective later? does your hero ability benefit from it later in the game (like Majiya's ability taking out a 4 health ally). for the most part, its not a bad idea to drop all 1cc alies from your deck UNLESS you do plan on making or keeping them effect later. the only except to this is brigette, her ability keeps her effective later

    now turn 2. humans, its a pretty easy choice there. shadow... do you want to have both brute and carnibaor in your deck? also consider your heroes ability. for example: in an elementalis deck, carniboar is a great card as is dark flayer. overall, brutalis is the ally you want to keep. have to keep remembering going second. this is also the point you want to consider other 2cc cards. tome of knowledge for example. crippling blow as another example. this is actually a good play going second on turn turn whereas retreat is not. casting a CB on a puwen, you used 2 TEMPO to neutralize 2 TEMPO of your opponents. you are even on TEMPO. retreat does the same thing BUT you opponent can then sac the puwen and gain something for it. in the early game, on a puwen, this is bad.

    turn 3. this is my favorite spot. you can definately add more than 1 3cc ally to your deck because its so important. go for 2 3cc allies and sometimes, depending on what deck you are building, go for 3 different 3cc allies.

    turn 4. this is the rough one. in general, the very best play is a draw engine going first but it isnt the only good play. going second is where it gets tricky. what card you play here depends on what has happened to you and what you opponent has out. sometimes its better to waste potential resources on an ally control card like crippling blow or now you're mine. these kinds of cards are still usefull in the late game but can be very helpful in the early game.

    considering this list above, your heroes card pool and the theme of your deck... what cards are you going to add for the early game?

    keep this in mind. 16-20 cards of a 40 card deck should be for the early game, preferably 20. oh relax, i am not saying COMPLETELY for the early game, just that you have 20 cards that will help your early game.

    any of this cards you pick, you should have 4 copies in your deck to help consistantly drawing them for the early game.

    having a draw engine out by turn 4 is very important. otherwise, adding resources becomes very problematic. you dont want to be stuck at 3 or 4 resources and cant cast a 5cc card on turn 5 if you need to.

    so we add draw cards into the early game setup. this can be anywhere from 4 cards to 12 cards and i call this your decks DRAW PACKAGE. 12 might seem excessive and it is. i say 12 is the max because its important to have excessive draw in certain kinds of decks, like weenie most especially and other rush decks as well. personally, i still settle for 10 in those kinds of decks. i want a lot of draw but i dont want to ONLY draw draw.

    in my experience, 6 to 7 draw cards in your package are optimal for most decks. 4 of your main draw and 3 of your secondary draw. example: in a mage, that could be 4 tomes and 3 bad santa

    the main key, is add 4 of any card if you want to be able to draw it fairly consistantly (this is very important for the early game. 1 puwen in a deck is almost never going to be a turn 2 play) and how often you wnat to see it during the whole game.

    so for now, you should of added 4 of everything that you want to have might want for the early game.

    now, you should of selected between 20-27+ cards for your deck. ones to help the early game and draw which is important to get out in the early game. do NOT worry about how many cards you have right now. i know it might seem a lot but we will be trimming it down later.

    consider a SOLO deck for a moment. you are not going to be using allies but the early game is STILL the most important part of building any deck. so you will be leaning towards ally control cards, stall cards and ways to remove allies a lot more than if you were using allies.


    so we move on.
    Last edited by Caitlyn0; 07-03-2016 at 03:00 AM.
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    Senior Member Caitlyn0's Avatar
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    STEP FOUR

    now we build the second deck. the early game deck is the most important but here, we are building the deck you actually want to play.

    first things first. 5cc allies. are you going to play them? most of the time this answer is yes.

    if you want 5cc allies, which better fit the theme of your deck? the one or ones you think will help, add 4 of each

    again, do not worry about the number of cards currently in your deck.

    the next thing to look at is item destruction. do you want any and if so, how much. lately i have been running with no item destruction. been using weenies to reduce durability. small problem with non-weapon and non-armor items though but i can usually work around. but thats what you have to ask yourself. do i want to have to work around all items? do i want to have to work around non-weapon/non-armor items? if you answered no to either or both, then you need item destruction cards.

    so you build a ID package for you deck based on this. 2-6 cards is optimal depending on what kind of destruction you want. if you want a complete package, then you need 6. anything will do depending on what is available for your hero (i personally choose acid et over LLN but rarely poor quality)

    now think of weapons (and 5cc armors if you really want to use them). do you want any? if so, how many? which ones will possibly benefit my theme? add 4 of any weapon you think you will need.

    now, you can finally start adding theme based cards. but keep in mind your early game allies. why? because this is the time you add cards like bloodlust/war banner/king's pride to help them.

    review all cards available to yoru hero and add 4 of each card you want access to through the game and 2 of any you may only want once or possibly twice.

    now, go back and review the cards you added. look at the cards available to your hero again and add or remove some. always thinking of 2 things. going second and your theme.

    now you have the beginning of your actual deck
    Last edited by Caitlyn0; 07-03-2016 at 03:00 AM.
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    Senior Member Caitlyn0's Avatar
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    STEP FIVE

    this is where things really start to get tough. again, always keep in mind going second and your theme.

    right now, you have a MONSTER of a deck. most likely over 50 cards. you have to cut it down before we can start testing it.

    so now is a good time to think about 1cc allies again IF you added them. remove them if you need space and have decent options for TEMPO advantage and control.

    if no 1cc allies or you just removed them or decided to keep them... we look at all allies next. how many do you need? depending on what theme you chose, this varies. a weapon heavy deck doesnt need as many allies, you can get away with 12-16 allies, possible even 8 with heroes like Amber, Gwen and DC. rush and weenie rush especially, you want a lot. at least 20 if not more. other decks can vary between 14 to 20. i would NEVER go below 14 unless solo or weapon heavy.

    my personal preference for most deck types lately is 20. but whatever number you decide, stick with it. start removing allies. sometimes you can get away with 3 of some allies, like DMT and Aldon for example. you can also get away with 2 or 3 if you are using more than one type of a specific cc ally. say you selected 4 moltens and 4 shadow knights. if you cut out 2, you still have 6 5cc allies, which is good number for them. you can go with 3 of each or 4 of one and 2 of the other. again, think of going second and your decks theme. my only rule when cutting down the number of allies you have more than one type of per cc is the 3cc ally range. i am just no comfortable with less than 7 3cc allies in a non-solo or weapon heavy deck (really not even in a weapon heavy deck, 3cc allies are than important.)

    after you cut you allies down... look at the rest of your cards. right now, you want to get you deck size down to between 45-50 (or even less if you want to do that now, i prefer testing first and ill explain there).

    figure things the same way... do i absolutely need 4 of this card? ive got 4 now you're mine and 4 capture prey, do i need that many or even both? can i get away with 1 less draw card? do i even need this card, eventhough it fits my theme. and the thing to remember here, when you have 2 similar cards (full moon and rain delay for example) which helps me going second more and which helps my theme. now in that example, you might think that rain delay will help you in the early game more and you would be correct BUT full moon helps your early game allies be effective in late game... so which would you cut out?

    once you get the count to 50 or below, we move on.
    Last edited by Caitlyn0; 07-03-2016 at 03:01 AM.
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    Senior Member Caitlyn0's Avatar
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    STEP SIX

    now. this is the fun part. testing your deck.

    there are several methods for this and i actually recommend doing them all but in a specific order.

    first is the AI. i dont recommend playing the premade decks the AI has. i recommend build custom AI decks. i have a few listed in the SE forum (you can find them in my deck thread) built for this purpose, taking into account some of the AIs frailties.

    this is what you are doing when playing the AI. you are not concerned about winning but work towards that goal. what you are really doing is testing the theme of your deck, testing the easy of play and smoothness of it and seeing what works better than other things at accomplishing your theme. play several games against at least 3 different heroes and deck types if you can. you really want to know if you deck struggles and isnt smooth and if it is smooth against one particular hero or deck build and not another. but overall smoothness and ease of play is what you are after.

    you can tweak some here if you find something just does not work... its in the way more often than not... or it just doesnt fit.

    now you are ready for a few quick matches. pay special attention to how the deck drops and plays going second. how much do you struggle? then make a few adjustments and play a few more QM games.

    now, after more than a few quick matches. its time to get bloody. and by that, i mean, its time to CUT your deck down to 40-43. you are most likely going to have to cut cards you dont want to cut. they worked but you need to get your deck size down. you already adjusted the number of your allies down in the rough draft and possibly made a change or two playing the AI and QM. leave them alone at this point UNLESS it was an ally giving you trouble going second or you want more consistancy in a given cc type (4 isnt enough 2cc? add in 1 or 2 different 2cc allies). the focus here should be on the non-ally cards. for consitancy 40 cards is best. 41 is still good. 42 is good to OK. 43 is decent but you are starting to push it.

    now, this next step, most of you will not be able to do but i find it invaluable. and thats, play yourself. thats right, have a second account and play against it. two wrods of warning. its slower than a normal game against another player AND DO NOT PLAY IN THE SAME BROWSER. you can play on your computer, but use two different browsers. why? using the same browser causes sync errors, game crashes and browser crashes. but using 2 different ones, it doesnt happen more than normal.

    why do i do this? because i can SPECIFICALLY see how the deck match up against a spefic deck or type. go steal some decks from the forum that are popular now and play against them. it lets you see what you might be missing, what is good and what is just OK (what is bad should have already been taken out at this point)

    at this point, you should most likely make no more changes BUT you still want to get some more testing in. so its time to go to irc and ask to play some people, especially people you know are really good. (i tend to sometimes skip this step, its really very bad of me because its probably the most important part of testing)

    so you play a few games, hopefully against some veterans, how did it do? if you arent happy at this point, then do a little more tweaking. if you are happy, then its off to grab ratings or play in a tournament.



    BUT there is one final step and its very very important
    Last edited by Caitlyn0; 07-03-2016 at 03:02 AM.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Caitlyn0's Avatar
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    STEP SEVEN

    its time to give your deck a name. this is the best part. it will no longer be a 42 card gravebone deck...

    now it will be GraveThunder and Lightning.


    it will no longer be an Eladwen rush deck...

    now it is Eladwen Frostburn.


    it will no longer be a moonstalker stall deck...

    its now MillStalker.


    its no longer a deck, its part of you. you named it and gave it power. dont laugh, this is a real phenomenon. take a teddy bear and a child. its just a stuff animal UNTIL the child gives it a name... now its her best friend and she will remember it forever.

    you will play the deck better if you name i and give it this power. so why skip this part?
    Last edited by Caitlyn0; 07-03-2016 at 03:03 AM.
    lil dark riding hood Queen of A1 Evolution in Theory
    Alliance One recruitment thread
    RED
    my EPIC videos
    Evolution in Theory
    SE Card Price Guide - My Deck Building Guide
    all my decks together
    owner of Earthen Protector flavor text
    Caitlyn™: collecting rage quits since 2011

    Evolution in Theory

  9. #9
    Senior Member Caitlyn0's Avatar
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    Last edited by Caitlyn0; 07-03-2016 at 03:04 AM.
    lil dark riding hood Queen of A1 Evolution in Theory
    Alliance One recruitment thread
    RED
    my EPIC videos
    Evolution in Theory
    SE Card Price Guide - My Deck Building Guide
    all my decks together
    owner of Earthen Protector flavor text
    Caitlyn™: collecting rage quits since 2011

    Evolution in Theory

  10. #10
    Senior Member Caitlyn0's Avatar
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    Last edited by Caitlyn0; 07-03-2016 at 03:05 AM.
    lil dark riding hood Queen of A1 Evolution in Theory
    Alliance One recruitment thread
    RED
    my EPIC videos
    Evolution in Theory
    SE Card Price Guide - My Deck Building Guide
    all my decks together
    owner of Earthen Protector flavor text
    Caitlyn™: collecting rage quits since 2011

    Evolution in Theory

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